What’s up with these Fragrance Families?

Let’s discuss the fragrance families for a moment. Now, everybody loves to smell nice. There’s a reason why the fragrance industry brings in tons of money year after year. Although most of us know a few brands here or there, many of us don’t know about the classifications of fragrances. Fragrances can be split into several families and below I will discuss each of those families and different brands of men’s fragrances that belong those families. However, it should be noted that the classification of fragrance families are not strict and new ones are invented now and then. Here is the list of the most basic families and the majority if not all of the fragrances in the world will belong to one of these.

fragrance families perfume mens cologne

Oriental

Oriental fragrances are warm,sweet and spicy. The main notes of this fragrance family are Vanilla, Tonka bean and Sandalwood. This family is sometimes referred as ‘Amber’ because the amber note occurs so often in these fragrances. This family can further be subdivided as “Soft Oriental”, “Oriental” and “Woody Oriental”. Soft Oriental fragrances have less concentrations of musk, amber and spices and Woody Orientals have Sandalwood as the main note. Equipage by Hermes and Egoiste by Chanel are examples of the Oriental family of fragrances.

Chypre

The name for this family is due to a feminine fragrance by Coty called ‘Chypre’ in 1917. The meaning of the french word ‘Chypre’ is Cyprus. This fragrance family contains mossy, woody and floral notes. Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver and Patchouli Bergamot are the main ingredients present. Febndi Uomo, Aramis and Vetiver by Guerlain are some of the examples of masculine fragrances of this family.

Floral

Floral is the largest category of fragrances and mostly focuses on feminine fragrances. Most of the feminine fragrances are floral and as the name implies these contains various kinds of flower ingredients. Jasmine, Lily, Peony, Tuberose and Rose are some popular floral ingredients. This family can be further subdivided as “Single Flora”, which only have one main floral ingredient and “Floral Bouquets”, which have a complementing combination of floral ingredients. Insense by Givenchy and Agua Lavanda by Puig are some examples of men’s fragrances that belong to the floral fragrance family.

Citrus

Many popular colognes belong to this category. Lemons, Bergamot, Oranges and Grapefruit are the main notes in this family. These notes are also known as ‘hesperedic’ notes. These fragrances are fresh, zesty, long lasting on the skin and invigorating. Happy by Clinque, D&G Masculine by Dolce and Gabbana are some examples for this family of fragrances.

Fougere

This is one of the most popular men’s fragrance family. Most of the fragrances in this family will contain notes of Lavender, Sage, Rosemary and Oakmoss. The meaning of the name is ‘fern’ in French and this family derives itself from the discontinued fragrance by Houbigant called Fougere Royale. These fragrances are characterized by their sharp, woody and herbaceous scents. Cool Water by Davidoff and Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren are some examples for this family.

Marine

This is a new family of fragrances identified more recently in 1991. Christian Dior’s Dune is considered as the first ever Marine fragrance. As the name implies, these fragrances evoke the sense of the sea breeze. An ingredient called calone (not cologne) is used to make these marine fragrances (also known as aquatics). New West for Him by Aramis and Kenzo Pour Homme are some masculine Marine Fragrances.

Leather

This family of fragrances features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood tars and wood as its base or middle notes. These fragrances can be velvety and soft or tangy and smoky. Yet always these will contain a leathery undertone. This category contains mainly men only fragrances, but some can still be used as unisex. Cuir de Russie by Chanel is an example for this family of fragrances.

So there you have it. Keep in mind that the classification of fragrances is a dynamic field and new categories and subcategories are commonly identified. Also, fragrance houses often claim their fragrance does not belong to any family and they end out creating a totally new family (let’s confuse us more!). Yet, if carefully analyzed, the fragrance will still belong to one of the above families. It’s good to have knowledge of the fragrance families as you can look up what your favorite men’s cologne falls under so you know which fragrance type you identify with best. Once you know that, you can explore more fragrances under the same family and find some new signature scents. You can also explore into the realm of the unknown and try on some that fall into families that you have not experimented with yet. I would also suggest reading about the Fragrance Wheel which is a classification chart introduced by Michael Edwards in 1983.

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EDC, ETP, EDP … What’s the Difference?

top mens cologne You may have come across the acronyms EDT and EDC while researching different men’s colognes. These are used to categorize a fragrance based on the concentration of oils found in it. All fragrances are diluted with a solvent due to the fact that undiluted natural or synthetic oils contain high concentrations of compounds that can possibly cause bad reactions when applied directly to the skin. With that in mind, the ones listed below can be broken down by the percentage of oil found in the composition of the fragrance.

Parfum or “Extrait” – This is the strongest fragrance available. A richer and more complex version of EDP, the concentration can be anywhere between 20-40%. Since it’s the strongest, it’s also the longest lasting and subsequently the priciest of the bunch. A little goes a long way with this level of concentration. Also, due to the high concentration, all notes noticeably release over a period of time.

EDP (Eau de Parfum) – This is what we all know as women’s perfume. EDP has an oil concentration typically between 10-25%. This and EDT are the most common fragrances available to consumers, with EDP for most women’s perfumes and EDT for most men’s colognes. The heart notes are the most noticeable in EDP’s.

EDT (Eau de Toilette) – This is the category that the majority of men’s cologne falls into. The concentration of oils is typically in the range of 5-15%. The lighter concentration allows this fragrance category to not be too overpowering as long as you don’t douse yourself in it. The top notes tend to stand out the most with this type of fragrance.

EDC (Eau de Cologne) – EDC is very light scented fragrance with a low concentration of oil (but higher than aftershave). Usually lower than 5% and falling between 2-5%, EDC’s are great for a light and refreshing scent usually applied as a spray. Eau de Cologne’s are mainly found only in men’s fragrances.

Keep in mind that some fragrances are offered in both EDT and EDP or EDP and pure parfum. Sometimes it’s just a stronger version and other times they change the aromatic compounds dramatically. When purchasing a fragrance, take note of what category yours falls into. For the most part, the majority of men’s colognes will be in the EDT classification.